Beginnings of a log cabin

A 2x6 treated bottom plate has been layed out and leveled up. This will be the footprint for the 12 by 16 log cabin.


The first round of logs will sit directly on the bottom plate so these logs must be hewed flat on three sides. We're making timbers now!


The door frame has been located and secured in place. There are a number of good reasons for this. In building a log cabin having a door opening is a handy thing to have as it allows easy access to the inside of the cabin during construction. Otherwise you will need to climb over the logs with a ladder and this will become a real pain as the walls get higher. Also because I have a limited number of logs I will be framing in the windows as I go to save logs. The corner joints will support the logs but the ends where the log meets the door or window frame need support. You could just peg through the door frame into the log end but that would not allow for movement as the logs shrink in diameter. So I cut a 2" wide 2- 1/4" deep dado groove in the door posts. The end of each logs will have a 2" by 2" tongue cut into it. This tongue and groove joint will make the wall stable and allow for movement as the logs shrink and the wall height lowers. After the logs have dried then the ends will be pegged and chinking can be done.


Now if you have been following the construction you realize that doing this the "old school way" there is a lot more to the processes than most people think. Many problems to solve along the way. One of these being after you select the log you want out of the rack how do you get it out to work on?
Handyman, planks, blocking and a couple of can't hooks will do the trick.


And now it is ready to peal, layout and hew. Snap!
Now it is on to cutting and joining the first round of logs for the perimeter.