Thursday, February 13, 2025

The things I discover along the way

 KidWind is where a team of students put their minds and skills together to design, build and test a model wind turbine to see how many Joules of electrical energy it will produce in 30 seconds while running in a 4 m/s (8 mph) wind velocity. This is an example of some of the thinking that goes on during the process. 

Let’Look at the chart above showing the testing data collected.  
Here are some things that change when you adjust the resistance load on a generator.

- As the ohms of load in (black numbers) went up the generator rpm in (gold bars) went up. Why?
    The resistance is placed in parallel with the armature windings. This results in a lower resistance in the circuit. This allows the armature to turn faster in the same wind speed.
- As the generator rpm in (gold bars) went up the voltage on (green line) went up. Why?
    When the armature turns faster the wires cut through the magnetic lines of force of the magnets faster and this causes the voltage to increase.
- As the Ohms in (black numbers) went up the Amps on (red line) went down. Why?
    The Ohm Load is in parallel with the armature wire where the amps are being created. In a parallel circuit the amperage is divided over each resistance. Some going to the Ohm Load and some coming through the armature wire. There is a bit more to this that needs to be explained.  
- Most watts on top (blue line) was produced where the rpm in (gold bars) crossed the Amps on (red line) 
    Why? I am going to call this crossing point the “Goldie Locks Spot” Not to hot. Not to cold. Just right! Not to much resistance for the flow of electricity (electrons) through the generator armature wire turning through a magnetic field at this speed. Which is caused by this much wind velocity. 

So let’s look at what we know:  
Generator - 40 watt 12 volt dc
Generator Resistance - 6 ohm
Number of blades - 16
Blade material - 20 gauge galvanized steel
Blade size - 1.75”  (4.4 cm) root 6” (15.2 cm) tip 17” (43.2 cm) long
Rotor radius - 18” (.45 m )
Wind velocity - 4 m/s (8 mph)
Free spinning rotor RPM - 4500
Generator pulley - 1.75” diameter
Bicycle rim diameter - 17.5”
Belt - 5mm poly material

What happened? Let’s see…

30 ohms of resistance load was placed in parallel with the generators 6 ohms of resistance. The total load result was (R1 X R2) / (R1 + R2) = 5 ohm (Note: actual measured circuit resistance in test was 4.4 ohms) .
The rpm reached with this load was 3180. At this point data was collected for 30 seconds. The median voltage was 22.4 vdc and the median amperage produces was .753 Adc. Calculating watts as V x A this resulted in 16.86 watts times 30 seconds run time  = 506 Joules of electrical energy.

Comments and questions are welcome.
Dick Anderson
Wisconsin KidWind Advisor


Friday, February 7, 2025

Bicycle wheel wind turbine rotor

The purpose of this post is to inform and demonstrate the thinking and problem solving S.T.E.M. skills used by KidWind teams in the design, building and testing of a model wind turbines to produce electric power. 

This design will be modeled after the common water pumping, wind mills, used for years on many farms. 

With that goal in mind the team must decide on the size and type of blades that will make up the rotor. They must decide on the generator size and drive train that will connect to the rotor. And lastly they need to decide how the rotor and generator will be supported and held in the wind tunnel for testing.
 
Starting with this 18” bicycle wheel rim. Now the “wheels” of a KidWind team can start turning using their S.T.E.M skills to solve problems they encounter along the way. 


What will the blades be made of? I chose galvanized sheet metal because that is what the farm windmills used and I could get this out of the local heating contractor’s scrap bin for nothing and recycle it.
 
How many blades and what size will the blades be? This design was going to follow that of a water pumper so I wanted a high solidity number. Note:Turbines with high solidity around 0.80 produce high torque at lower speeds.  Keeping in mind how I was going to keep the blades from bending. My 20 gauge scrap material was 16” wide so that would be the length of each blade. 

What diameter circle could I get with 16” long blades? I would calculate the circumference ( cir = 2 Pi X radius ) to be 100.48 inches. If I choose to make the blade tip 6” wide. Then dividing 6” into 100.48 gave me 16.74 blades. I would round this down to 16 blades and have a slight space between blades (resulting in a very high Solidity). 

How would I layout the blades on the sheet metal and then cut them to size? I determined that if I alternated tops and bottoms of the blades on the 16” wide sheet there would be no waste. My 20 gauge sheet metal was to thick to cut by hand with an aviation tin snips so I would need to find a friend in the heating industry with a mechanical squaring shears cut them.  Note: for some reason I only cut 8 blades but in hindsight this will prove to be a good thing as it will allow for more testing and comparison when I add in the other 8 blades. 

 I found a 6” collar in the stove pipe department at Menards as an anchor for the root ends of the blades. The inside diameter of the collar hole was 3.5” so I could calculate the circumference (cir = 2 Pi X radius) to be 11”. Thinking that clipping the point off would provide a wider root end to attach each blade with 1/4” pop rivets to the 6” collar. By chance I tried thought about making them 2” wide but knew they would not fit the 11” circumference. I would divide 11” by 8 blades and come up with a 1.375” wide blade at the root end. Call it “dumb luck”.

After clipping off the points of each blade I needed to begin the process of attaching the blades to the bicycle rim. The root ends would be attached with 1/4” steel pop rivets. Using two rivets per blade. The mid-point of each blade would be attached with a 6-32 NFT (National Fine Thread) 3/4” long machine screw on the fixed side and a 8-32 NFT  2” long screws on the pitch adjustable blade edge.

Here you can see the mid-blade attachment screws. The 8-24 NCT  2” long machine screw has a nut that holds it to the bicycle rim.  The 2” long one goes into the blade and the nuts can be positioned to set and hold the necessary pitch of each blade. Note: holes for these machine screws could be drilled but a better method is to use a sheet metal punch. This works like a paper punch but is much heavier duty. Any local heating contractor will have this tool.

How will the robot be supported? With the rotor assembled it is now time to think about that. There are several materials and structures that could be considered. Think about what materials and skills you have. Think about the strength, weight and costs. I choose plastic PVC pipe because I had a lot on hand from previous KidWind turbine projects. The idea was to run the 5/16 - 24 NF (National Fine)  threaded axles of the bicycle wheel through the centers of the four way fittings. 


A  problem  soon became apparent. The 5/16 - 24 NF (National Fine) threaded axles were to short to go through the 4 - way fittings


This new problem would require some new learning and machine skills. Drilling and threading of a 1/2 - 13  NC (National Course) threaded piece of Ready rod. The drilling could be done on a drill press or with a hand drill but would be best done using an engine lathe. The use of a Tap Drill chart would be needed to determine the correct size of tap drill to use so that enough material would be left for thread cutting. Also a 5/16 - 28 NF tap and tap wrench would be needed. Then the process of cutting the threads would be performed. 

How will the turbine support system be built? The idea for the design of the turbine stand would be to place the 1 - 1/2” PVC pipe legs at 45 degree angles as shown. Each leg would have Tee fitting on the end. Two identical front and back frames would be made.

How long will the legs be cut? Critical math calculations would need to be made to determine the correct length for cutting the legs. The depth the PVC pipe goes into each fitting needs to also be considered. You know the height and width of the wind tunnel. You know the location inside of the wind tunnel you  want the center of the turbine rotor to be at when it is placed into the wind tunnel. Nice application for the Pythagorean Theorem here I would say. 


How far apart should the two frames be spaced? With the front and back halves made and the rotor mounted between them it was a matter of determining the rotor blade clearance I wanted. Then calculating and cutting the PVC pipe spacers to put between the Tee ends.

The design was made to have the rotor blades to be as close as possible to the face of the fan in the wind tunnel. This was done to maximize the amount of air that would strike the blades.

How would the blades be made strong enough to not bend at the tips? This was done by coping what the windmill industry did by lacing a No. 9 fence wire through holes made near the tips of each blade.

How would the No. 9 fence wire be able to go through the blade and not bend the blade? This was done by punching 3 holes to form a slot that the wire could pass through and allow for the 15 degree pitch of each blade and allow for changing the pitch to change the speed and torque of the rotor.
.   
Rotor supported and placed into the 48” by 48” KidWind wind tunnel as close to the fan as possible. 

(Note: I just noticed that in the picture above the rim of the bicycle wheel is between the fan and the blades. This increases the distance between the blades and the fan. A test will be made by reversing this and see if it increases the output of the turbine.)


How will the generator be attached to the frame and rotor? In this design the bicycle wheel will act at a pulley. A belt made out of green 5mm Poly Belt stock bought on Amazon will drive the 2.5 “ V-pulley on the 40 watt 12 volt DC generator. The generator will be attached to a piece of 1/2 plywood with automotive hose clamps and the board is also held to the PVC frame with hose clamps. This arrangement allows for tension adjustment of the drive belt.

     
How will the pulley be attached to the generator shaft? This problem will be solved by making a bushing with a 1/2” O.D. (Outside Diameter) to fit the 2.5” pulley and a 5/16” I.D. (Inside Diameter) to fit the generator shaft. A cross hole will need to be drilled to allow the set screw in the pulley to pass and seat on the generator shaft. (Note: Hexagon material was used for this bushing to make it easier to drill the cross hole.)

One final touch will be to add a sensor that will be used to measure the RPM of the turbine rotor during testing. This sensor uses the Hall Effect with a magnet taped to a blade. Here you can see the output display, the magnet on a blade and the sensor that is taped to the PVC frame.

Originally the bicycle rim was between the rotor blades and the fan making the distance about 6”. Reversing the set-up so the rotor blades are on the other side of the bicycle rim reducing the distance between the rotor blades and fan to about 3”. Will reversing the set-up so the rotor blades are closer to the fan make any difference? The answer to that is a resounding YES! 

The rotor RPM went up from 243 to 293. With the 1”10 ratio the generator RPM went up from 2,430 to 2,930 and with a 45 ohm load the Joule out put went up from 200J to 305J !

Now let’s imagine that for an instant challenge you gave a KidWind team 10 minutes to look and study this turbine, and go over it with this handout sheet, protractor, a ruler, a multimeter and a calculator . The task is to write down as many statements about this turbine they can make.



EXAMPLE 
1. It has 8 blades
2. The blades are made out of sheet metal 
3.
4.
5…




Below is my list organized by turbine part,


ROTOR
1. 8 Blades
2. Sheet metal blades
3. 16” long blades
4. Area for one blade is  ((1.375 + 6) 16 ))/ 2 = 59 sq. In.
5. Total blade area is 59 x 8 = 472 sq. In.
6. Rotor radius is 17.5”
7. Rotor swept area is pi x 17.5 x 17.5 = 961.6 sq. In. (.619 sq m)
8 Solidity is 472 / 961.6 =0.491 
9. The blade pitch angle is 15 degrees
10. This is a HAWT (Horizontal Axis Wind Turbine)
11. The rotor circumference is 2 pi x 17.5 =109.956 inches (2.79 m)
12. In a 4 m/s wind at 293 RPM (4.88 RPS) 4.88 x 2.79 = 13.6 m / 4 m = 3.4 TSR

DRIVE TRAIN SYSTEM
13. Pulley and belt 
14. 17” diameter drive pulley (bicycle wheel rim
15. 1.5” diameter pulley on generator shaft
16.  Ratio  17.5 / 1.5 = 1 to 11.66
17. 1/4” round belt

GENERATOR  Name Plate
18. 40 watt
19. 25 volts at 3,000 RPM
20. 25 volts and .186 amps = 4.66 watt 
21. Turbine Theoretical power output = ( 1.22 x .619 x 64 ) 2 = 96 watts
22. Power with Betz’s Limit = .58 x 96 = 55 watts
23. System efficiency = 10 w /  55 w = .18 = 18%

STAND or TOWER
24. 8 Tees at $3.59 each = $29
25. 2 Crosses @ $6.11 each = $12
26. 8  -  28” long 1-1/4” PVC pipe = 18.7 feet
27. 4. -   6” long 1-1/4” PVC pipe =    2.0 feet
28. 20.7 feet of 1-1/4” PVC at $1 per foot = $20.70
29. 14” long 1/2” threaded rod
30. I  18” bicycle wheel rim
31. 16    1/4” diameter 1/8” draw steel pop rivets
32. 8    6-32 NF 3/4” long machine screws and nuts
33. 8    8-24 NC 2” long machine screws with 24 nuts 
 
Is this applied S.T.E.M. ?







 








Monday, January 27, 2025

Solar Testing model for KW

 Solar testing model for KidWind - first prototype 1-27-25


Ok so this $14 solar yard light represents an off grid solar PV system with battery storage. You have a solar PV collector, (inside) you have a battery (cell) and battery (cell) charge controller and then you have the load, a LED light. Everybody that is a consumer gets this. 

Let’s look at the detailed information that comes with it. 
PRODUCT SIZE: 41.5 H cm / 16.34 H clear enough but it is in metric (2.54 cm = 1”) 
BATTERY  1 (did you know that this should say CELL not battery because there is only one): 
1 X 18650 (did you know that this cell is 18 cm in diameter and 65 cm tall) 
3.7V (did you know that a standard carbon paste dry cell can only produce 1.5V)
1200mAh (did you know that this single 1865 cell could power a light drawing 1.2 amps for 1 hour)
Lithium Rechargable Battery (Cell) usually written Li-ion and if dead could be recharged if you applied 1.2 amps at a little over 3.7V for one hour.   

This information is a bit more technical. My point is that knowing or understanding these details is not necessary if you just want to be a consumer. Lay your $14 down at your local ACE Hardware and you have a working solar system!

However if you are a KidWinder want to be one of the people that DESIGN, BUILD and TEST a solar PV system with battery storage, read on…

To help answer some of the design question and understand what is going I have built this model. The blue 1865 Li-ion cell has been made visible as well as the charge controller (under the yellow tape). A set of four 1.5V D cells in series to get 6 Vdc has been added. These will be used when there is no sun or light on the PV panel. Each of the components that make up the system has contact points where voltage measurements can be made. Also each of the components has a connection that can be pulled apart and an ammeter can be inserted (in series) to measure the current flowing in each individual part.

This schematic shows the wiring of the different parts. Helpful when using that multimeter making measurements and collecting data.


These four switches are mounted in the from of the model. These allow you to set up different conditions and then measure voltage and amperage readings. Calculate the wattages and determine the charge going into the 1865 Li-ion cell or the amount of charge being drawn out of the cell. Then calculate the time needed to charge the cell or how long the cell will last before the light goes out. There is a lot more to it and after I work with this for a few more days I will post a follow up post.

Do you want to be a consumer of solar PV systems or do you want to be the person that Designs, Builds and Tests solar PV systems? 
  



Wednesday, January 22, 2025

Solar model for KW

Model PV solar system design.


My goal here is to design, build and test a model working electrical system the simulates a typical off grid PV system. Using small scale components to represent the load, the battery, the charge controller and the PV input. The purpose is to gain a better understanding the technical electrical requirements and limits of todays bigger and more complex home PV grid tied electrical systems. 

Pictured above (L to R) a load, a battery and a solar panel. The charge controller is not shown.

 Some questions that should come up if the system is to function are:
1. Can this battery light the load and for how long?
2. Can the solar PV panel recharge the battery and at what speed?


The drawing above uses water in a bucket (at the top) to run a load (shown in green). The water flows out of the top bucket straight down to the green load turning the shaft and then out on to the ground. Depending on the flow of water through the green load (controlled by the green valve above the load) some or all of the water will flow past the red valve and into the storage at the bottom. The red valve will control the flow of water into the storage at the bottom and can be shut off to protect the storage from being over filled (the storage area will be damaged if filled to fast or overfilled).  If the flow out of the top bucket slows or goes dry then the water from the storage at the bottom will be used to make up the difference to keep the green load running to meet the demand until the water in storage (below) is used up.

If this makes sense then I would direct students on to the drawing on the right using the parts from a $15 Ace hardware rechargeable solar powered landscape lighting unit with a  6 volt dc solar panel and single 1865 Lithium ion 3.4 volt cell. I replaced the units charge controller with a $2.00  5v 1A Lithium battery module charging board that had a type C interface USB. This allowed me to plug in a $10 Diymore USB C Tester Power Meter to collect data (Voltage and Current, Power Bank Capacity and working Time) for the model PV system during charging and discharging of the 1865 Lithium cell. I started testing using my LED shop light. The LED worked and I could collect all the data to confirm the performance of the model system, but was to slow. I then replaced the 6 volt dc solar panel with a $25 Radio Shack Universal AC adapter to provide the 6 volt dc input needed. This increased the speed of the battery charge performance when measured. I also used two 12 volt dc automotive type running lights (in parallel) to speed up the discharge of the 1865 Lithium ion cell.

This is my progress on the PV model system to date.