Friday, November 8, 2019
The first round of logs for the cabin are in. For an added touch I cut a blind dovetail for the joints of the side logs to the front and back logs. This will provide a mechanical connection at these corners, although unnecessary, I think it will enhance the cabin.
First item of business was to layout and cut the socket for the dovetail. Using the framing square blade width (2") and tongue (1.5") for distance units. The dovetail female socket was 4" x 2" and 3" long and 3" deep. This was cut and chipped out and then the mating dovetail cut to fit.
One down and three to go... The true test will be in the fit. Care was taken to chamfer the edges of the mating dovetail as the last thing I wanted to do was have to struggle with these if they hang up when assembled.
Well that worked out better than I planned!
Now with the first round of logs cut and joined it is on to Round 2. Sizing the logs and then cutting the half dovetail joints so that the chinking joint is between 1.5" and 2" will be the next challenge.
So far so good.
Thursday, October 24, 2019
A 2x6 treated bottom plate has been layed out and leveled up. This will be the footprint for the 12 by 16 log cabin.
The first round of logs will sit directly on the bottom plate so these logs must be hewed flat on three sides. We're making timbers now!
The door frame has been located and secured in place. There are a number of good reasons for this. In building a log cabin having a door opening is a handy thing to have as it allows easy access to the inside of the cabin during construction. Otherwise you will need to climb over the logs with a ladder and this will become a real pain as the walls get higher. Also because I have a limited number of logs I will be framing in the windows as I go to save logs. The corner joints will support the logs but the ends where the log meets the door or window frame need support. You could just peg through the door frame into the log end but that would not allow for movement as the logs shrink in diameter. So I cut a 2" wide 2- 1/4" deep dado groove in the door posts. The end of each logs will have a 2" by 2" tongue cut into it. This tongue and groove joint will make the wall stable and allow for movement as the logs shrink and the wall height lowers. After the logs have dried then the ends will be pegged and chinking can be done.
Now if you have been following the construction you realize that doing this the "old school way" there is a lot more to the processes than most people think. Many problems to solve along the way. One of these being after you select the log you want out of the rack how do you get it out to work on?
Handyman, planks, blocking and a couple of can't hooks will do the trick.
And now it is ready to peal, layout and hew. Snap!
Now it is on to cutting and joining the first round of logs for the perimeter.